New top

A lot has been happening around here. Unexpected (painful and expensive!) dental work, job interviews, warmer weather and several sewing projects have kept me away from this space for long enough that I don't recognise Blogger. It took me a few seconds to figure out how to publish a new post.

Anyway, after a frustrating morning of drafting a new sloper (more on that later) a few days ago, I was looking for an easy project. The fabric is from a thrift store that I've had in my stash for several years now. The colour is not especially an harbinger of spring but the fabric is soft and very thin; perfect for warmer days.

I've made different versions of this top a couple times before. The original pattern is from this Japanese book but I've changed the pattern considerably. This time I made a short-sleeved version with cuffs and didn't sew down the inverted pleat. It made for a quick and easy project!

Have a wonderful weekend!

Negroni take two

I finished making a second Negroni muslin a while back and I almost can't recollect all the details. Let's see. I traced a medium but added length to the body and arms. I traced the largest sized cuffs and tapered the sleeves out to match. The biggest change I made from the original pattern was to change the collar from a camp style collar to a traditional collar and add plackets, which I did using Peter's instructions.

The overall fit is much better in the shoulder and the neck fits perfectly. The shirt still creases near the armhole but it looks better than the large muslin in the front and back. I had to use a 3/8" seam allowance to sew the shirt front to the back and at the armhole, since it was a little too snug.

The fabric was labelled as a chambray but it really is an oxford.

Things to remember for the next time: the shoulder, collar, plackets, cuffs need no change. I need to shorten the collar stand I drafted by about 5/8". I need to sew and press the cuffs more carefully, so that the inside fabric doesn't show! I would add even more length in the body, maybe shorten the sleeves a little. Most importantly, I need to trace a larger armhole, with more room in the shirt body.

It isn't perfect yet but it's getting closer with each try!

Weekend gormandising

Trying to fry chicken or

how I will never again deep fry a piece of meat without having a thermometer (or two) at hand. Most of the pieces were done to my liking but some pieces were most definitely too rare. The oil was just too hot. What was I thinking?! Not the fault of the recipe, just user error.

This chocolate cake more than made up for it, though. Moist, tender, not-too-sweet. I used Callebaut dark chocolate instead of semi-sweet. No special reason, I just felt like eating a slice of chocolate cake.

We are off on a short backcountry ski trip tomorrow to enjoy the last of the snow, although it most certainly feels like spring around these parts. Happy Monday!

Pattern making

I first tried to draft my own patterns whilst we were living in India in part because I didn't have easy access to commercial patterns. I bought a couple of books, scoured the internet for tutorials, and soon realised that I actually enjoyed the process. It took longer to make a finished piece from start to finish but I found it to be very fulfilling. Besides, I often have to tweak commercial patterns to get a good fit anyway.

Now that I am back in the U.S., I have all kinds of commercial patterns in my possession but I still find myself wanting to draft my own. I've borrowed several books from the library and have been playing around with miniature sized blocks.

I'm not entirely sure where this process is going but I'd like to at least draft a basic pattern set for myself and see how that goes. So far I haven't spent as much time on it as I'd like but I'm going to try to work on it more.

In other news, I've finished quite a few sewing projects that I hope to write about soon, so stay tuned. In the meanwhile, enjoy the leap day!

Negroni muslin

I've been wanting to make a shirt for my husband ever since I learnt how to make buttonholes successfully. Our favourite tailor in India even made me a pattern but I just wasn't sure how to put it all together. Colette Patterns' Negroni shirt was all I needed to take the leap. With Peter's MPB Men's Shirt Sew-Along as a resource and Sarai's very good pattern instructions, I decided to make a muslin.

I was able to put all the pieces together! I traced and sewed the large size without any modifications. My feeling is that it is a tad too big. What do you think? Peter addresses a few fit issues on his blog, which is where I learnt about pivot points. The shoulder seam extends beyond my husband's pivot point. The shirt seems too large across the back yoke and the fabric creases under the arm. The shirt length and sleeve length look good, though.

For the next version of this shirt, I am going to trace a medium and make a few modifications. Mainly, I'll add length to the body and sleeves. I am also going to follow instructions to convert the camp style collar to a traditional collar and draft a button placket and facing. Wish me luck!

On the needles: Peabody

This pattern caught my eye when I was browsing the Jared Flood pattern binder at the local craft store. It's a simple stockinette sweater with a lace panel that keeps it interesting.

I'm using the tweedy yarn I picked up on our trip to Ireland last year. I've knit past the armholes and have finished the back since taking these photos but I'm a little worried I might run out of yarn. I have three hanks in total so I should have enough but we'll see.

Now, if only it would get cold enough to wear a cozy wool sweater...

Apple pie

and tea for breakfast.